Veggie Blog

A homemade patty is lovely, but most of us reach for a packet from the freezer on a busy night. The old version of this post promised that every veggie burger is healthier than a meat burger. That is too simple: the packet on the shelf can be very good or fairly salty and processed, and the label tells you which.

Is a veggie burger automatically healthy?

No. The USDA’s reference entry for a generic soy veggie burger (uncooked, per 100 grams) lists 15.7 grams of protein, 4.9 grams of fiber and 1.4 grams of saturated fat, but also 569 milligrams of sodium. The same database lists a cooked, pan-broiled 85% lean beef patty at 24.6 grams of protein, 5.3 grams of saturated fat, no fiber and 79 milligrams of sodium. So the veggie burger wins on fiber and saturated fat, and loses clearly on salt. Treat the comparison as a rough guide, because one entry is raw and the other cooked, and brands vary a lot. You can look up any product in USDA FoodData Central.

What numbers should you look for on the label?

A dietitian at Johns Hopkins suggests choosing veggie burgers with fewer than 5 grams of saturated fat, ideally under about 400 milligrams of sodium and at least 4 grams of protein per ounce. (The published page says “grams” of sodium, which is clearly a typo for milligrams.) Walter Willett of the Harvard T.H. Chan School of Public Health gives a simple rule for plant-based patties: saturated fat should be less than a third of the total fat, and sodium about one milligram per calorie. For context, the American Heart Association sets 2,300 milligrams of sodium a day as the upper limit and 1,500 milligrams as the ideal for most adults, so one patty can use a big share of the day.

What should the ingredient list start with?

Look for whole foods first: beans, vegetables, whole grains, seeds, tofu or tempeh. The Hopkins dietitian prefers patties built on whole foods over those made from isolated or hydrolyzed protein, and notes that veggie burgers can be highly processed. Check for allergens too, since many patties contain soy, wheat, egg or milk.

Is it vegetarian, or vegan?

Not every veggie burger is both. Some contain egg or milk, so a vegan needs to check. Strict vegetarians should also remember that processing aids can come from animals. The Vegetarian Society points out that cheese is traditionally made with rennet, an enzyme from animal stomachs, so a patty with cheese in it needs a “suitable for vegetarians” label. Look for a clear vegetarian or vegan mark on the pack.

What about burgers made to taste like meat?

Plant-based patties that imitate beef are more processed than a bean burger, but the Harvard article above quotes experts who judge them a better option than beef for both personal and planetary health, as long as you check the label. Fast-food chains now sell them too, which is a long way from the old post’s remark that you can “even buy them at Burger King.”

How do you build a better burger?

Choose a whole-grain bun, pile on lettuce, tomato, onion, avocado or mushrooms, and go easy on ketchup, cheese and mayonnaise, which add salt, sugar and saturated fat. Add a side of beans or a salad if the patty itself is low in protein. For recipes that use beans and lentils see high-protein vegetarian meals and our fiber-rich cholesterol-friendly diet plan.

I used to write that a veggie burger can taste better than a meat burger. That is a matter of taste, but a good homemade one is worth the effort, and it is easier than most people expect. Here is how to build one, and what makes a patty fall apart in the pan.

What goes into a good veggie burger?

Think of three parts: a main ingredient, a binder and flavor. The main ingredient can be beans, lentils, mushrooms, cooked grains, nuts, potatoes or tofu. The binder, such as rolled oats, breadcrumbs, ground flaxseed or an egg, holds the mixture together. Flavor comes from onion, garlic, spices, herbs and a little salt. A black bean burger recipe from a Johns Hopkins dietitian shows the idea: rolled oats, bell pepper, shredded carrot, cumin, coriander, paprika and canned black beans, baked in the oven. By the published numbers, one 200-gram patty has about 10 grams of protein and 11 grams of fiber.

How do you keep a veggie burger from falling apart?

Most crumbling comes from too much moisture or too little binder. Rinse and drain canned beans well, and pat them dry. Pulse most of the beans so they turn sticky and leave some whole for texture, which is the same method the Hopkins recipe uses. Cook onions or mushrooms first so they release their water before they go into the mix. Chilling the shaped patties for about half an hour is a common cook’s tip that makes them much easier to handle. Then cook them gently with a little oil and turn them only once, when the underside has formed a crust. Baking, as in the Hopkins recipe (300°F for 40 to 45 minutes, until the edges are crisp), is the least fussy method.

Is it safe to cook with dried beans?

Yes, as long as you cook them fully. Raw or undercooked red kidney beans contain a natural lectin that can cause nausea, vomiting and diarrhea. Health Canada advises soaking dry red kidney beans for at least 5 hours, discarding the soaking water and boiling them vigorously for at least 10 minutes. It also says not to cook dry red kidney beans in a slow cooker, because it does not get hot enough. Canned beans have already been heated enough and need no extra boiling, which is one reason many recipes use them.

How do you store and reheat homemade veggie burgers?

Cool the cooked patties quickly and get them into the refrigerator within two hours. According to the USDA, leftovers keep for 3 to 4 days in the refrigerator or 3 to 4 months in the freezer, and should be reheated to 165°F. Freezing the patties in a single layer with parchment between them makes it easy to take out just the number you need, and a double batch costs very little extra effort.

Who invented the veggie burger?

The old version of this post said the first veggie burgers were made in 1982. That year holds up for the first commercial one: Gregory Sams launched the VegeBurger in London in March 1982. Recipes for vegetable patties had been printed before that, as early as 1969, according to the Smithsonian. So the idea is older than the product, and cooks have been improvising patties for a long time.

What should you serve with it?

A whole-grain bun, lettuce, tomato, onion and avocado or mustard are a good start. For more bean and lentil ideas see our guide to high-protein vegetarian meals, the vegetarian chili recipe that uses kidney beans and corn, and eating oats, fruit and beans to lower cholesterol. The advantage of cooking at home is that you decide how much salt goes in, which is the main thing to watch with the packaged versions.

A few years ago I wrote that you no longer need to make any effort to find tasty vegetarian food. That is much closer to the truth than it used to be, but there are still a few things to watch for.

Can you find vegetarian food in a supermarket?

Yes. Walk through the aisles of almost any supermarket and you will find beans, lentils, tofu, plant milks, vegetable burgers and ready meals. The harder question is how to put these products together into a dish you enjoy, and that is where the old post’s tips still apply: look at cookbooks, websites and food magazines. A simple start is our vegetarian chili recipe, and high-protein vegetarian meals has fifteen easy ideas.

What about restaurants?

Most restaurants offer at least one meatless dish, and the old post noted that even steak houses serve salad. I would add a caution: a salad is not always vegetarian, because it may come with bacon pieces, anchovy dressing, or it may be served with a soup made with chicken stock. Ask how a dish is made. Hidden animal ingredients are also a risk in cheese, as the Vegetarian Society explains: traditional cheese is made with rennet from animal stomachs.

Do fast-food chains have vegetarian options?

Some do. The old post pointed to Burger King, and that has changed a lot since. CNN reported in August 2019 that Burger King would start selling the plant-based Impossible Whopper across the United States on August 8, its biggest rollout of the product yet, initially for a limited time. Menus change often, so check the current menu or app before you order. A plant-based patty is not automatically the healthiest choice, but it gives vegetarians a choice they did not have before.

Why hasn’t everyone gone vegetarian yet?

The old post ended with that question. I think the answer is mostly habit, taste and what is on the table at home. If you are curious, you do not need to switch overnight: start with one or two meat-free days and see what you like.