The Vegetarian Table by Kitty Morse

by Bibbi on October 9th, 2013

The Vegetarian Table by Kitty Morse

North African vegetarian cooking deserves more attention than a token bowl of couscous. In The Vegetarian Table: North Africa, Kitty Morse looks at Morocco, Algeria and Tunisia through the ingredients, techniques and hospitality that give the region its distinctive food culture. The result is a regional cookbook, not simply a generic collection of meat-free recipes.

What is in Kitty Morse’s book?

Published by Chronicle Books in 1996, this volume contains more than 80 vegetarian recipes. It belongs to the publisher’s Vegetarian Table series and includes an entertaining section and colour photographs. Contemporary reviews describe vegetable tagines, couscous variations, stews and pastries, with contextual writing that connects the food to the people and places behind it.

A Publishers Weekly review notes the author’s personal experience of the Maghreb and discusses her vegetarian adaptations of regional dishes. That is an important distinction: the book is a vegetarian interpretation of several food traditions, not a claim that every North African table excludes meat.

Spices, grains and vegetables

Saffron, ginger, cinnamon, cumin, preserved lemons and olives all contribute to the flavour of different North African dishes, though each country and household has its own preferences. Chickpeas or fava beans can make a vegetable stew satisfying; couscous absorbs fragrant cooking liquid; toasted nuts and fresh herbs add contrast.

Try borrowing the book’s overall method when you cook: layer aromatics, use spices with intention and let slowly cooked vegetables develop their own sweetness. A pinch of preserved lemon or harissa can be more useful than another long list of ingredients. Taste before adding extra salt, especially if olives or preserved ingredients are already present.

Who will enjoy it?

It suits curious home cooks who want to explore regional flavours and the stories behind them, as well as vegetarians looking beyond familiar European or American dishes. It is less suited to someone who wants exclusively fifteen-minute meals or a modern photograph for every cooking step.

Availability: out of print, but not forgotten

Kitty Morse’s own website identifies the book as out of print while noting that second-hand copies remain available. The original ISBN is 9780811806947. Check used-book condition and availability individually rather than assuming a new copy exists.

Book: The Vegetarian Table: North Africa by Kitty Morse

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